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Custom Sewing and Alterations
If you want clothes that fit!

Making the Most of Pattern Drafting Software

Originally published in the January 2002 edition of Sewing World magazine

What is Pattern Drafting Software?

Every one of us is a different shape, and for some obtaining fitting garments from commercial patterns is a task that requires us to make a number of alterations before we cut into our fabric. Even then, we are sometimes disappointed by the final fit.

One answer to this is to draft your own patterns. But many people find the process of developing the basic block patterns by hand time consuming, and the fitting process can take several repetitions. Once you have the basic blocks, you then have to develop your garment silhouette, and add the degree of ease that you want, before you can start adding the design features that will make your garment unique.

If these two options are not attractive, this is where pattern drafting software can come to your assistance. There are two approaches to pattern drafting incorporated in the programs on the market:
  • Use personal measurements to produce basic blocks, then provide CAD (computer assisted drawing) tools to allow you to draft your own patterns based on them;
  • Provide a mix and match facility with pre-programmed garment styles and options, to allow you to produce many different garment styles using your personal measurements.
Some of the programs you can buy contain components of both, so you can produce a pre-programmed garment style, then use a CAD tool to make further customisations.

These computer programs all draft patterns based on your own measurements, so you will know that they will fit. The ones that include pre-programmed garment styles also short cut the process of adapting the basic blocks to the silhouette you need.

How Much Computer Know-how Do I Need?

These computer programs are very easy to use, and do not require any special technical knowledge about computers. You do need to understand how to use the mouse, and how to use menu commands, in common with every other program you run on your computer. Where there is a CAD tool, you will also need to learn the commands and keystrokes for making changes to the pattern drawing displayed.

When you receive your computer disks or CD, you will need to follow some simple instructions to run an installation program - with some CDs, just inserting it into the CD drive of your computer will start the installation program automatically. You will be asked a number of questions relating to where you want to store the program, but it is usual to accept the defaults (i.e. not change anything, and just click with the mouse on 'next').

You will then start up the program, by following the instructions in the manual. This will look very similar to starting any other program on your computer. You may also have to inform the program what print settings you are using, to ensure it prints the pattern pieces correctly.

Measurements Are Key

Computer buffs have a saying 'garbage in, garbage out', and this applies just as much to pattern drafting software. For this software to print a pattern, it needs measurements, and it is important to get the measurements right if you expect to get usable patterns. Some programs come with standard sizes already set up, but you must take your own measurements and feed them into the program before you can produce totally customised patterns.

These measurements should be taken wearing your normal underwear, as your body shape can change quite significantly with different underwear. Find someone to help you with your measurements, as it is well nigh impossible to take your own measurements - bending and stretching to put the tape in a certain position can give a false reading.

Your measuring friend should refer to the instruction manual when working through the measurements your particular program requires. Make sure to read the descriptions for each measurement to ensure they are taken at the right place.

Now enter these measurements into the program, and produce pattern pieces for a closely fitted garment to test the accuracy of fit. Each program recommends a particular set of garment styles for this, usually a close fitting bodice with a waist and side bust dart, a straight skirt with one or two darts on each pattern piece, and a close fitting pair of trousers. (These will be the basic blocks in the CAD only programs). When you try on your trial fit garments, bear in mind that this is likely to be more closely fitting than garments you usually wear 'in public'.

If you are dissatisfied with the fit in a particular area, change the measurements to alter the pattern shape, according to the instructions in the manual.

Producing Patterns

Once you have your measurements you will be able to start producing customised patterns.

In the programs that provide a number of pre-programmed garment styles, to specify the pattern you want, you will either answer a list of questions or select options on a screen. These questions and options allow you to select a garment type and shape, and combine it with features such as necklines, collars, sleeves, waistband, pockets and degree of ease, etc. to specify the garment you want to sew. Incompatible combinations are excluded.

The next step is to print the pattern. On a normal printer, you will get a pile of pages, each with part of the pattern printed on it. Special markings are also printed to help you join these pages together in the right sequence and correctly aligned. Join these pages together with sticky tape or glue, trim the spare paper off the edges, pin the pattern pieces on your fabric, then cut and sew as normal.

Adapting Patterns and Adding Design Features

While the mix and match features of computer pattern drafting programs offer many hundreds of garments, you may want to make something with a particular design feature not included in the software. And for the programs that only offer CAD features, you will need to develop the design you want from the basic blocks fitted to your measurements.

There are three ways you can approach adapting the patterns you print out:

  • The pattern is printed on paper, and you can use your pencil, ruler and flexible curve, scissors and tape to make any further design changes you desire. A good pattern drafting book (there are several available) can give you ideas and instructions for doing this.
  • If the program provides drawing tools for changing the patterns produced, instead of printing your pattern, you save it on your computer disk, then open it in the drawing tool. These tools allow you to draw lines and curves, split pattern pieces into parts, add seam allowances, in fact everything you can do on paper, but on your computer screen. Once again, a good pattern drafting book can give you the ideas and instructions you need. After making these changes, you print the modified pattern as above.
  • Combine your pattern with commercial patterns. For example, you could take the collar or pocket on a commercial pattern and superimpose it on the pattern you have printed. You can also select the closest silhouette from the pattern drafting software to overlay a commercial pattern, to make fitting the commercial pattern easier and quicker.
Making Up The Patterns

Because you have designed and printed your own pattern, there will be no pattern instruction sheet. Therefore, you need to have some experience of making up patterns and sewing techniques. There are many good books on the market to provide technique information. For the order in which to approach the construction of your garment, you can refer to commercial patterns you already have.

What Is Available?

To choose which program will best suit you, first decide exactly what you want to achieve, and compare this to the features each offers. Over the next few months, I will be describing the main programs available, to help you to do this.

Some of the software is available in demo versions which allow you to get a feel for them, without offering full facilities. With others, you can buy a version that has fewer style options at a lower cost to use as a taster.

In Conclusion

To sum up, these computer programs are flexible tools to help you produce patterns customised to your design ideas, and that you know will fit.
  • The customisation features will ensure that the patterns are for exactly the garments you envisage.
  • The fit will mean you waste less time adapting commercial patterns to your unique body.
  • You will be able to produce patterns when you need them, without waiting until you can visit a shop to browse the pattern catalogues, and potentially wait again while the pattern you want is delivered.
  • The more patterns you produce, the greater the savings you will make on commercial patterns, covering the cost of the software.